Search This Blog

Friday, May 26, 2017

3DHS 48" Demonstrator__Too Much Joy


Too much joy, you know, like when you are doing something you aren't supposed to be doing and loving every second of it.,

 Remembering when we were young, the times we were doing something completely blissful was usually right before we got caught, and that instant lasts forever when you are flying a Demonstrator. It's so much fun you know that you are being a bad, bad boy. Truly, too much joy.

So, I just had to build a second one. You know, just in case.

My initial reaction to seeing the first photos of the Demonstrator was that, thankfully they finally put a nice landing gear on it, because the old Edge 1.5 Huck this plane is based on flew pretty well. Now it's going to be a nice plane. What caught me out was just how much nicer 3DHS has made this plane. The carbon motorbox, battery tray, anti rotation pins and supports, plus carbon reinforced servo mounts and cowl tabs not only stiffens up the plane considerably (which makes it fly and track better), but the bling value makes the Demonstrator as much fun to show off to people than any plane I can remember.

The capper is the superb printed color scheme with carbon style flames licking over the entire plane. From a cool standpoint, this plane is simply blinding.

Even though that's more than enough, that's not the real story behind this plane. The real joy is the most important part, which as always is the flying. I flew enough 1.5 hucks to know I was going to like this plane, but the surprise was how much better the improvements stiffened the plane, and how much better that makes it fly. I've got to be honest and say the 1.5 in my eye was never as good as the SHP, even for the new guys. Remember the SHP is my baseline plane, and I judge every other plane by how it compares to this. The 1.5 was a decent plane, but the SHP was always going to be better in every way. Now though, the Demonstrator is at least it's equal, so equal in fact that I can't separate them. If I had to choose just one, it would come down to flipping a coin.

As much fun as I have had over the last 10 years flying SHPs, the Demonstrator gives the same kind of giggles, only with sizzling coolness.



Servo Upgrade
I've been using Hitec HS65MGs in my current Demonstrator and while they have been great, after 300 really hard flights they are getting a little tired and I wanted to upgrade for this plane. They have been great, but since this is a new plane, I wanted the very best of everything for it, including servos.

My friends at Hitec RCD were kind enough to send me a set of HS5070MH servos, and the new Demonstrator was a good opportunity to put them into play. These servos run on 7.4 to 8.0 volts, and as such, have much better speed, torque and centering. This is going to show up big in how well the new plane will fly. There's going to be no stalling or blowback, which will give you a more responsive plane. Also, the plane will track like a laser beam with their precision centering. Major upgrade for only a few dollars.

 Also worth noting is that this HS5070MH is under stressed in this application, so they just sort of do the job loafing around. It's like using a hammer to drive a thumb tack, but the benefit is the servos are having such an easy time of it that reliability goes way up.


When I built the Murder SHP two years ago I went with the HS5070MH and they have been off the chain stellar. I beat that plane hard and often, and there was ever going to be a servo that screamed
"enough", it was going to be in that plane. Still, they are going strong.

 Since the Demonstrator is the same weight and size, this servo is idea and about as good of a servo as you can find in this size. The HS5070MH is the same size servo, and in fact even uses the same bolt pattern, but it's a little taller. Hitec kept this in mind when they designed the servo and they did not make it too tall for use in current planes. Basically, you can just swap the out for your HS65MGs and have an instant upgrade.

To feed these servo 8.0 volts, I rely on the trust Castle Creations 10 amp BEC. This is such a good little unit that I even use it in planes as big as my 60" EXPs.
 
 Power System
By now most readers know what's coming next. Of course, it was going to be a Torque and an Airboss.

But of course.

I started my association with Extreme Flight in 2008 representing the Torque and Airboss brands. That's 9 years of absolutely dead solid perfect reliability, so even if something else was recommended, and Torque and Airboss was still going to go into this plane. In this case it's my favorite of all of them, the venerable, versatile and bulletproof Torque 2814. I have flown this motor on 3, 4 and even 5 cells and it's always had great power, smooth running, perfect reliability and it's very own distinct turbine like sound. On 3s it just sounds like a sewing machine, on 4s it's like a turbine engine with the governor taken off and the throttle jammed open. On 5s it lets out a blood curling howl that's frightening to hear.

For those of you who are replacing their older beloved wire geared 48" Edges, or even SHPs, your Omega 130G will bolt right in and work just fine. The Omega 103 will work too, but you might find it to be a little underwhelming.

Worth mentioning is that if you buy the Torque/Airboss power system with your kit as a combo, you save about $70. That drops the price to where the motor is essentially almost free, or to the point the entire power system is very competitively priced with "budget" power systems that won't be nearly as good. If you already have a power system, that's good too, but if you need one for this plane, there's no better way to go than the Torque/Airboss power system combo.


I wanted to mount the ESC on the bottom of the motorbox, but I could not get the deans plug to come out where I wanted it. I may play around with it later, but for now it was essential to get the article finished and get some video in the can and on the net.

As such, I simply mounted it on the side of the motorbox and the deans plug comes into the battery compartment where it is out of the way for battery change out, but perfectly positioned to plug it into the battery.


Aileron Set UpSport flyers might think this set up looks wrong because the pushrod is not at a straight angle. The reason we set the pushrod this way is because in 3D we run so much throw that you want the pushrod as straight as you can get it at maximum throw. Bolting it to what appears to be the wrong side of the control horn actually gives you perfect geometry at full deflection.

 
In a major upgrade 3DHS is now supplying double ball link hardware. Ball links give you smoother, drag free operation, as well as eliminating any slop or looseness in the pushrod system. They are also much easier to set up that the old swivel connectors, You just bolt them on and you're done. I love this upgrade.
 
Elevator Set Up
Again, it's just a simple dual ball link set up. If you follow the manual, it's really hard, if not impossible to go wrong. The kit comes with hardened allen head bolts and lock nuts, so again it's just a simple bolt together operation.
 
 
I used the standard arm that comes with the servo and pegged my end points. This gives me slightly less than bevel to bevel deflection, so it's plenty of throw with no danger of the servo binding. Like the rest of my set up, this comes straight out of the manual. The entire plane is extremely well thought out.

You want your pushrods to be as straight as you can get them, so to achieve this for the elevator. I bolted the ball link to the inside of control horn. The alignment is absolutely perfect, which assures smooth operation and good centering of the control surface.



Ruder Set Up
I'm going to cheat a little here and point you to the picture above because it also gives you a good view of the pull/pull rudder cables. The slots in the fuselage come precut, so it's a simple matter to tuck the loose covering into the slot with a trim iron.

Pull/pull systems are not difficult to set up or maintain. You just need to know a few tricks, and you'll learn those on your own after you do a few of them yourself. The only thing that makes me crazy on pull/pull installations is that's it's not easy to do a clean looking installation. You've got the crimp piece and the wire loop and the extra wire hanging out, and to me I just cringe when I see work like that.

I think I've come up with a decent enough looking solution though. First, I slide the crimp piece very close to the threaded adjuster piece, and I pull the slack wire so tight that the loop you would normally see flattens out against the crimp piece. I crimp, run a little thin CA onto the crimp piece, and once the glue sets up I cover the whole thing with some heat shrink tubing.


It's not perfect, but it looks so much better than having everything exposed that I an reasonably happy with it. I am probably going to always have one of these planes, so I will work on making something even cleaner looking. I have a little bit of OCD on things like this, which always drives me to trying to do things better.

Here's what the cables look like hooked to the servo. You use that standard Hitec HS65MG servo arm that comes with the servo. Again, I got the crimp pieces as close as I could to the connector pieces, got the loop wire as tight as I could and heat shrunk the entire thing to make a neater looking package.


Radio Installation














Friday, May 19, 2017

Working With Pull Cable Systems

 
Еще раз спасибо моим друзьям в России, которые читали блог 1428 раз в этом месяце. Большое спасибо за отличную поддержку и, пожалуйста, расскажите всем своим друзьям. Также, это специальный привет моему другу Терранозавру!



I've had so much fun with my 48" 3DHS Demonstrator Edge that I wanted to build another one. I've been threatening to write an article on pull cable set up and this gave me an excuse to build another Demonstrator even though my first one is still in terrific shape. Maybe I'm just greedy.

For those who have never done a pull system, it can be quite intimidating, but it's really just as easy as using a pushrod, just different. Like anything else, you need to know a few tricks and you learn those by doing them, and hopefully, from reading this article.

Setting Up The Pull System

My first pull system had me scratching my head and cursing a little, but I learned enough from that to make subsequent ones go smoother. It's not that hard and there are no mysteries. After you do a couple you will wonder why you were intimidated to begin with. What I'm going to try to do is show you some of the little tricks I learned the first few times.

If there are any hard and fast rules they are that you want a drag free and slop free system. The rudder has to move smoothly with no drag coming from a bad hinge job or ill fitted tailwheel assembly. The swivel connectors on the servo arms also have to have no drag on them, and as little slop as you can manage without getting them so tight they drag. If there is ever any doubt on any part of this, always go for smooth and drag free, slop free operation. This is critical for good rudder centering and makes for a good flying and nice tracking plane.


Cleaning Up The Cable Exits
The slots for the cable are already laser cut into the fuselage sides, and the covering is slit so the wires can pass through. The first step it to tuck the covering into the slot with a trim iron. Get them out of the way so they don't put any drag on the cables. You can either cut them flush with the edge of the slot or tuck them in, but tucking them in makes for a neater and cleaner looking job. Here you want to use low heat to avoid the iron sticking and pulling the printing off. Take your time, do a neat job. I think you'll agree this looks a lot cleaner than leaving it loose.




The Cable Ends
Now, thread the ball link onto the threaded connector piece. You can either hold the threaded connector with a pair of pliers and spin the ball link on by hand, or chuck the connector up in a small drill and spin it into the ball link. If you have arthritis, using the drill will make life a lot easier.

The connector will be easier to handle this way because it gives you something to grip. I suggest threading it on all the way, then backing it off five turns or so. This will give you some additional adjustment should you need it later.

 
With any operation, the cleanest and most tidy job is going to be the best solution. The least clean part of any cable installation are the cable ends and crimp pieces, and I've done my best to make that neater. Here is how the manual calls for the cable ends to be assembled. This works really well, though it's a bit messy for my taste. We are still going to do it the way the manual calls for, though we are going to tidy it up a bit.

Follow the manual and you will get what you see below. Again, this works well, but we're going to clean it up a little. I've put a battery on the ball link to hold it down and aid in getting a better photo.

 
We are not really going to deviate from the manual here. We are just going to go one step further in making it look better. Again, the cleanest solution is the best one. What I try to do is eliminate the loop in the cable and the extra wire sticking out. First, I pull the wire in the loop tight enough to take the loop out. This goes a long way toward a cleaner appearance. Then I move the crimp piece closer to the threaded end piece to make the whole thing smaller and visually less intrusive.


Once you get it all lined up. take a pair of pliers and smash the crimp piece flat. Just to be sure, put a drop of thin CA on the wire and hold the piece so gravity helps it run into the crimp piece. Snip off the loose end of the cable and the whole thing looks a lot better. It's still pretty ugly. but we're not quite done.


Finally. I use a piece of heat shrink tubing to cover the whole thing up and make a nice presentation.


Setting Up The Servo Arms
Now we take care of the other end.  Here I am using the standard Hitec double arm that comes with the servo and the 3DHS swivel connectors. These are nice because they afford easy cable tension adjustment.

First, drill the outer holes in the servo arm with a 5/64  size drill. I use a little hand drill from the Hobbico set, but in a pinch you can get away with hogging it out by spinning #11 Xacto blade in the hole. Drilling can leave behind some flash around the hole, and this can interfere with the swivels moving smoothly. I use an emery board to lightly sand the top and bottom of the arm. Good, smooth operation will help with proper servo centering.



On the newest 3DHS swivel connectors the threads on the end are a little tighter so the nut spins on a little harder. This is a good thing because it makes it harder for it to come loose. Get the nut as tight as you can get it without introducing any drag. Again, you always want smooth, drag free operation on any control system.

As you can see, the threaded end is a little long, and you have a few threads sticking out. The reason for this is you want to put to put CA on these threads to lock the nut on. I like to use a T pin to apply some thin CA to the exposed threads, and after that sets up, a dab of medium CA. This assures it's not going to come apart.


When you put the arm onto the rudder servo, use the sub trim in the transmitter to center it.

Hooking It All Up
With the cables attached to the control arm on the rudder and cables run forward into the fuselage, now it's time to hook them to the servo. Here I run the forward threaded end pieces halfway into the swivel connector,  and this gives me adjustment both fore and aft, and remember, we have some adjustment in the rear if we need it.

 
 
Now you want the rudder to stay centered so you can get the cable tension close, and for this I usually tape the rudder counter balance to the fin. Since the Demonstrator uses printed covering, I don't want to risk damaging it, so I have the wife or a friend  pinch the two together. 
 
I like to install one cable at a time because it's easier that way and you have less chance of mixing the cables up.  You want the cables to cross over top of each other inside the fuselage so they line up straighter to the servo. By doing one cable at a time, you simply start with the left cable and attach it to the right side of the servo arm and the right cable to the left arm. I don't know why, but I always start with the left cable.

 Make sure you slide the crimp piece onto the cable first.  Starting with the left cable, run it through the right side forward threaded connector piece. Pull the cable tight. You want to be careful that you don't pull so tight that you start breaking things, but you want it tight enough that you won't run out of adjustment later. Usually the cables end up not being as tight as you thought you had them, so get the slack out. If it's either too tight or two loose, we left ourselves some adjustment by centering the forward connector pieces in the swivel, and remember we also left ourseves some emergency adjustment at the rear with the ball links.



 One neat trick here (see above) is to get the cable tight, then bend it backwards at the connector. This will help it stay tight and not slip while you are running the wire back through the crimp piece. You can see I pulled the wire tight and then folded it over the connector. You can pinch the cable down on the connector with one hand and it's not going to come loose. Then you slide the other end into the crimp piece with your free hand (which has slid back out of sight in the photo).

Like so............

Now you do the loop, which I did not get a picture of, but it's the same as we did on the other end and the same as in the manual. Again, I like to pull the loop tight,  but also again, be careful you don't slip and start breaking stuff. If it's all good and still tight, smash the crimp piece down to lock that part of the adjustment in. Apply some thin CA to the crimp like you did on the rear and it's almost done. Put a paper towel in the bottom of the fuselage just in case you spill any CA. From there, snip off any excess wire, remove the threaded end pieces from the swivel and use heat shrink on the end and crimp pieces.

Do the other side exactly the same way and you're almost home. Yes, I am well aware the rest of the radio installation looks like a rat's nest, but we'll clean that up later



You may notice that my connectors did not even need adjusting. I got the centering and tension
perfect just by pulling the cables tight. Like I say, they normally come out a little looser than you planned, and keeping the slack out to begin with made it perfect. After you do one or two of these you can expect the same kind of results. None of this is a mystery. You just need to do one or two to get used to it, and then it's easy as pie.

Now all  the hard stuff is all done now. All that is left is the final adjustment.

Adjustment
Odds are pretty good you have it almost perfect. You want the cables tight enough that there is no sag in them, and there is no slop in the rudder. On the other hand, you don't want to get the cables guitar string tight either. That will kill the centering. Just adjust the cables so there is no sag in them, and no tighter. Assuming the rudder and swivel adjusters move smoothly with no drag, the rudder should center perfectly. if not, you probably have it too tight.

Slide the forward threaded connectors in or out of the swivel connectors to get the rudder perfectly centered, then tighten them down.  Generally, you don't want the cables so loose that you can move the rudder, and you don't want them so tight that the rudder doesn't center properly. The best rule of thumb is to get them tight enough that they don't sag, and no more. If you get them guitar string tight the rudder will center poorly and eventually the servo will burn out. If you get them too loose the rudder can move when the servo doesn't and it will center poorly to boot, which is never good.

Another good rule of thumb is that if the rudder centers well, you are pretty close. Finally, as long as the rudder will repeatedly center, leave it alone!  If you get it right now, you may have to adjust (usually tightening) the cables once or twice over the lifetime of the aircraft, but outside of that, it's pretty maintenance free. A little patience in getting it right now pays the dividend of you not having to mess with it later.

Generally I try to take a little pride in my writing, but this procedure has been challenging to put into written word. I tried to explain this to a friend out of state over the phone and I did a poor job. Later he visited me and brought his new Demonstrator. It was finished except for the pull system, and I showed him how to do it in five minutes. Showing was a heck of a lot easier than explaining, and infinitely easier to understand, and I tried to keep that in mind when I wrote this. I hope you will find this clear and helpful.




Sunday, April 2, 2017

52" Slick 580 EXP___Hail To The Zonker!

Еще раз спасибо нашим друзьям в России, которые в этом месяце опережают американцев, посетив наш блог 566 раз в первые три дня апреля. Спасибо за вашу поддержку и, пожалуйста, расскажите об этом блоге своим


 



As much as I enjoyed my red/white/blue Slick 580 EXP, I still wanted a yellow one, simply because I am a little weird for yellow airplanes. Those seem to serve me really well as evidenced by my original Extra SHP, and later, my yellow 64" MXS EXP. That, and yellow is very easy to see.

Almost everything I wrote in previous article on this plane is the same, though there are a few little changes worth noting.
FLYING
 
One thing that certainly has not changed since my red Slick is how well the plane flies. In fact, with a little familiarity, this one came off the bench a little more cleanly built and set up. She came off the bench requiring one click of up trim, and that was with my trim sensitivity turned all that way down, so that equates more into 1/4 of a click of trim!

I got pretty much what I was expecting based off my experience with my red Slick, though now with a little familiarity I am much, much more comfortable and in control of the plane. The red Slick was great from the beginning, but you always have that new plane fear going. Now that I have a second one, all that is left to do is enjoy them safe in the knowledge a crash won't put me out of the Slick game.

Again, and maybe even more so with the newest Slick, there is some sort of intangible I can't quite explain. The plane is very similar to an Extra, though it just feels incredible. Like the Extra, it goes and stays where you put it, except the Slick seems to do this with much more authority. This adds to the confidence I already had in the plane and from here it's just going to be a matter of learning the intricacies of the plane's behavior and working on things like snap timing.

The Slick's snap behavior is a little different from the Extras in that it seems to be a little more willing. For example, you need some momentum to wind the Extra up into a violent snap or tumble, but the slick is happy throwing the tail over the nose even at medium speeds. The Slick also seems to tumble a little more gracefully, but then again, that's always been a hallmark of the Slick.

As far as super high speed full deflection death tumbles, I don't think anything can touch the 48" MXS, but the Slick is still very respectable here and a little better than the Extra. This plane is so nice you probably won't want to abuse it like that anyway.

If you do, however, the Slick does a nice blender. I got my timing wrong on one blender and actually dove it at high speed into a full throttle KE spin with all the momentum behind it. For a few seconds it was whipping around so quickly I did not know which direction it was going! I will try to duplicate that on video once one of my Slicks starts to show some age. Right now I like them so much I am just treating them nicely and trying to preserve them a little, though they are certainly built well enough to take whatever you dish out on them.

Both the Extra and the Slick do sweet, straight, tight waterfalls, so there is nothing to separate them here.




Perhaps the original Slick's best attribute is it's harrier manners, and that's been brought forward into the Slick 580 EXP. You can see in the video I drag the Slick around pretty slowly, nose up, and on the deck in 15mph crosswinds, so clearly this was a design priority when the Slick first went into CAD.

While the original Slick was a bit draggy and not especially impressive on top speed, the Slick 580 is much different. The new slick is long and sleek, like a high speed pattern plane, and it can chew up the real estate pretty quickly. Speed is stability, so the Slick 580 now has improved precision manners to go along with it's huckability.

This plane does superb slow and point rolls, and I am sort of playing around with consecutive rolls using the rudder instead of the elevator. You will see a few in the video and they sort of look like rollers at flying speed. very different.

The Slick's KE manners are so good that I have total confidence flying it out of a stall on it's side. last year I had one of my other planes snap out on me like this, but admittedly I was asking for it and flying stupidly. Still, you would think that would be a lesson capable of dissuading me from trying it again, but like I say, the slick feels so good I am not afraid to do anything with it.

While my rollers are nothing to brag about, they look pretty ok with the Slick. The wing and stab are closer to the thrust line than they are on the original slicks, and this makes everything roll around the same axis and gives very axial behavior. Only the Yak seems to do this any better, but it's a slim margin. I'm very comfortable rollering this plane, and in fact, was instinctually doing them even before I really understood the plane well enough to try that sort of thing.

A plane that feels good can be very encouraging.

I know people expect a detailed analysis from me, but it's pretty straight forward with this plane. If the Extra does everything the way a plane is supposed to do it, the Slick does it just as well and some things better. As an Extra man this sort of pains me a little, but I could turn into a Slick man pretty quickly.

Don't get me wrong........ the Extra definitely still has it's place. It's just the Slick is rather similar and does some things better. The lines are just blurred a little more as we edge closer to having the plane that does everything perfectly. I need to fly them both a lot more to gain a better understanding of them. I'm not rushing it, though. This is a journey I plan to relish.

BUILD
 
 
Nothing was really different from the first Slick except I went in with a very high degree of confidence. The first one came out perfect with a minimum of effort, so why not?

Something I feel needs to be illustrated again is just how revolutionary Extreme Flight's self jigging (self aligning) stabilizer installation is. This is normally the most critical part of the build, but the Big X has reduced the hardest part of this to simply not spilling a lot of glue on the plane. if you can avoid that, you are assured of a straight, clean build.

Determined to trust the new technology incorporated into the Slick's unique self aligning horizontal stabilizer, I jammed the stab all the way forward, did not measure it, and simply glued it. Now, it makes sense to check it since it only takes a few seconds, but again, I wanted to demonstrate how well the self aligning stab works. After the glue set up it measured absolutely dead on, so now that's two of them that came out perfectly with this system. This will give me the confidence to do them all this way and save myself the agony I used to put into tinkering with getting the stab straight.

I'm going to cheat a little and use photos from 52" Slick EXP__ The New Classic to illustrate how simple the stabilizer installation really is.


 
I explain the stab installation in detail in 52" Slick EXP__ The New Classic , but the short version is that the front center part of the stabilizer is flat. When you shove the stab all the way forward, that flat part butts up against the alignment formers, and a straight build is virtually assured! From there you simply run a bead of thin CA along the joint, wait for it to set up, then do the other side, wait for it to dry, then flip it over and repeat on the bottom side. It couldn't be any more simple or goof proof..
 
 For the new guys, this system simply eliminates a critical step that can screw them up. The plane goes together absolutely straight with a minimum of building skill or effort, so from that standpoint alone the Slick makes a good first 3D plane. There are other attributes as well, but this one is really going to help the inexperienced builders crank out a perfectly assembled airframe.

The rest of the build went pretty much like the first one, which you can read about in 52" Slick EXP__ The New Classic . With the new construction techniques and Xcessories, the builds have never been easier nor more fun than they are right now. It's hard to imagine how it can get any better, though my source deep within Extreme Flight has shared a few things with me, and it is indeed going to get very much better. Each new release will be better build and easier to assemble than the last.


Pilot X!
 
One really nice surprise is how well the small Pilot X fits the new Slick. I had a yellow/blue left over from my sadly departed and beloved 60" Yak, so I thought it was worth a try. The pilot was still mounted on the balsa plate I used in the Yak and it fit perfectly. This tells me that at least the cockpit of the Slick is as wide as a 60" Yak, and that's probably part of why it floats so well and flies so lightly. The fuselage is so large it creates a lot of lift, and that's how the Slick has closed the gap somewhat to the larger planes.




The small canopy of the slick simply demands a pilot, and this one surprisingly is the perfect size. he doesn't look too big or too small. it was almost like he was made for this plane and I am delighted with the look.

 
SET UP
 
 
Just a few changes on this plane but nothing earth shattering. The second one of any build usually comes out cleaner and more well prepared because you have a better idea what you want from the plane and how to get it. That was also true on this plane.
 
Ailerons
I used the Xcessories 1.25 arms on my red Slick, but that was so much throw I had a little trouble being smooth with it. Since my radio only has a high and low rate, there is no mid rate for me to use. I either have high or low, and I set up my high rate so I can fly it for everything but precision work. This time I used the Hitec PN55709 set and maxed my travel adjustment (end points). This gives me about 37 degrees of aileron, which is fine for me. I can fly this smoothly, so this was a good adjustment.
 
 
If you have triple rates I suggest you use the Xcessories 1.25 arm with all the throw you can get for high rate, then turning the mid rate back to something a little less instense like say 33-38 degrees or so.
 
 
Elevator
I played around with running the full 1.25 Xcessories arm on the elevators of my 52" Extras, but for the Slick I stayed with the G10 arm as specified in the manual. I figured I could always use the long arm and get more throw later, but I was really happy with the plane this way. The pitch authority does not come on with a horrendous bang like it does when running 88 degrees, but is more progressive and easier to modulate.  
 
The Slick snaps and tumbles just fine with the G10 arm and pitches about as hard as my planes with 88 degrees do. This has me rethinking my previous views on big elevator throws. I may be getting away from the big 88 degree deflection I have used in the past on my 48" planes as I look to fly more smoothly and in control. This seems to be a good start.

 
The Slick still does really solid wall maneuver's, so monster throws don't seem to be necessary. The Slick's precision manners sort of preclude me wanting to beat it hard and pitch it like crazy, and I am finding better ways to bleed off speed other than big throws. You just have to plan it all out a little better in advance, but that too makes for a smoother presentation.
 
An unexpected benefit from this is that even running the same elevator deflection on low rate as before, now the elevator operates much more smoothly and again, progressively on low rate as well, and the servo also seems to center more precisely.
 
Rudder
Yes, I am cheating by using a photo from my red Slick, but the set up is the same. Extreme Flight was out of Xessories arms when I built my red, so again I used the short  Hitec PN55709 arm. With my end points at 140 I am nearly touching the elevator halves with the rudder, so you can't get much more throw than that.
 


 
GLAMOR
 

Yeah, the Slicks have always been one of the darlings of the 3DXA world, but the EXP treatment with it's long and sleek lines really blinged this plane out. It's simply sexy and swoopy and a fine looking plane. KM's modernized traditional scheme (very well done yet again, Aron) works well with this plane and really accentuates it's unique lines. Maybe the best looking plane I have ever owned next to the 52" Extra EXP, and even then it's a close call between those two.








 New Propeller Partner
Thanks to Bob's Hobby Center for providing the Falcon Propellers we used on this project. Bob's Hobby Center is the US Distributor for Falcon Propellers and they have a huge inventory of Xoar propellers as well. Generally I can't tell a Xoar from a Falcon when I am flying them, and they look very similar too. With Bob's I have the choice of either brand, and they usually have every prop I need in stock. Bob's is about 2 hours up the road from me in Orlando. so I usually get my props the next day.

Falcon propellers have served me so well that I am going for consistency and switching to them completely.


There are probably going to be a few partner shakeups this year, though I hope to remain with Extreme Flight for the rest of my life. We have a lot of new things in the pipeline getting set up for the 2018 Doc Austin Retirement Tour. I'm hoping to hit a few events and keep doing what we've been doing, then settle down into old age with the soul mate and maybe fly RC just for grins. No matter how much I try to retire there are still going to be guys who need help, so you won't be completely rid of me until I really go home for the last time.


EAT ME!

 

Sunday, March 12, 2017

52" Slick EXP Flight Report__Simply Superb

Еще раз спасибо моим друзьям в России, которые в очередной раз возглавить иностранный контингент в блоге хитов за этот месяц. Вы, ребята, рок! Yeshche raz spasibo moim druz'yam v Rossii, kotoryye v ocherednoy raz vozglavit' inostrannyy kontingent v bloge khitov za etot mesyats. Vy, rebyata, rok!



The wind conditions I experienced my first day out with Extreme Flight's superb new 52" Slick 580 EXP did not let up the next day, so we just had to shoot the next day and be a little more careful. I certainly didn't want to re-kit the plane before we had video and have to explain that to "The Boss." This happened once before on a project and he just laughed at me because I was so stressed out about it, but that didn't make me giddy to do that sort of thing again.
 
Of course, that was not as big of a worry as I thought it might be. Back at my home field on a beautiful (but windy) day with all my friends, one lap around the field was all it took for "The Red Mist" to set in and I was right back into my groove, even though my experience with this plane was two tentative warm up flights in bad conditions. My two previous flights the day before revealed there were no surprises, and I knew exactly what to expect from the plane. I had the confidence to fly it hard even in bad conditions.
 
But then again, that gets back to this plane being so ....  Simply Superb.
 
Click To enlarge On All Photos

That really is the only description that fits this plane, from the moment you open the box, through a seamless, almost effortless build, right through a calm, collected maiden flight in bad conditions with the only surprise being how good the airplane really is.

Normally it takes a few flight for me to completely mesh with a plane, but not this one. I knew what I had as soon as I checked the trims, which was zero. It was dead straight right out of the box, perhaps in part because of it's revolutionary self centering stabilizer. You can't get it wrong, and this showed up when I leveled the plane with no trim and it tracked like it was on a rail from one end of the field to the other.

That was the first day, but I have to admit I flew it a little feebly  because of the conditions and more importantly we had no camera guy on hand. You can't get crazy until you have a video or two stashed away, so accomplishing the mission on day one meant simply to get out alive.

Day one, however, was much more than that, though. I fell in love with the plane instantly, ran out the pack and sat down to think about what I wanted to change. Generally each new plane has a list of loathing points that you want to tweak out, be it a CG change, control deflection change or even a mix. This time though it was no trim and no changes., I could not think of anything I wanted to do the plane at all except maybe hit it with another coat of wax.

I scratched my head a bit and thought carefully, and this couldn't be right. How can the plane be perfect in every respect right out of the box? How could I mesh with it instantly and know instinctually how it was going to behave, almost as if it were anticipating my next move?

If course that would take a very special plane, one that is ....

Simply Superb
 
Click To enlarge On All Photos 
 
FLYING
This morning the wind had laid down really nice, so I threw everything in the car and called my buddy Ken to meet me at SPARKS for a video shoot. Ken has been shooting video with me since the early 3DHS days and my first SHP, and he has always been a great friend.
 
Of course, once I got there the air was howling and it didn't look like a good day. Still, we were here for a shoot, and if there was any plane you could trust in these conditions, it would have to be simply superb.

Since I had not been to SPARKS in a few months, everyone stopped by to visit when I was putting the plane together. It was great to see everyone again, but in the process I plugged the left aileron servo in backwards, and then I forgot to check it! This showed up on take off with one aileron not working and slightly deflected, so I had to fly it in like this in ripping wind. No issue, though because the plane is solid, stable, forgiving and predictable. I instantly knew what I had done wrong, and the plane is so simply superb that I just held opposite aileron and flew it back in. I turned the plug around and finished the flight, and even with everyone wanting to see the Slick fly and watching breathlessly, no one picked up on what I had done wrong! Even in an emergency situation, the plane stayed composed and got me home so smoothly everyone was oblivious to how much trouble I had gotten myself into.

Suitably scared witless, I leaned enough to know how hard I could push in the conditions, and then we shot the first video. This was my third ever flight with the plane, and considering the lack of time and poor conditions, I think you can easily see how simply superb this plane truly is.



On the next flight I had one dicey moment when a big gust blew the plane overhead in a four point roll. I got into that area of disorientation that's 75 degrees above your head and, well,  lost orientation. I gave it the wrong direction rudder on the third point. I nearly got the hill, and a big groan from the gathered throng. After that I pulled my head out and flew a little more sensibly. 




The conditions improved a little for flight two, plus I was into my groove a little more. I was able to push a little harder and find what the plane likes, which is pretty much everything. We wrapped up the day because people were anxious to see the video, and that was it. Another successful mission.
 
Flying Specifics
Overall the Slick is stable and forgiving, but it's also micrometer precise in big sky maneuvers. The power system is perfectly matched to these 52" birds and doing large maneuvers is just easy. When you pull up into a big climb or loop. the plane doesn't lose any speed, so it's not going to fall off or torque over to one side. You don't have to correct the tracking with rudder, which gives the pilot one less thing to do. The less you do with this plane, the more it does for you and the better you look.
 
Tracking in knife edge (KE) maneuvers is most excellent. The plane just locks in and flies straight, so with point and slow rolls you simply get your rudder and elevator inputs timed right and the whole thing looks like it's on a string. The Slick slow rolls simply superbly, though in these videos I am giving the ground a little room. We'll get her on the deck first nice day out.
 
The Slick snaps superbly and is a little cleaner here than the Extra. The Slick seems to lose a little less "oomph" at the end of the snap, and maybe carries out a little more speed, but either way, it is easier to position your exit where you want it and fly it out where you want it, almost like you planned it that way! Snap timing is not really any different than the Extra, but the Slick seems to be just a little more willing to wrap itself up and throw the tail over the nose. It's just fun to tumble it, and even more fun to fly it out because it stays so firmly in control. You fly it in, wrap it up and it comes out the other side calm and composed, and it makes you look good.
 
KE spins are just effortless. Just jam the sticks in position from any sort of entry and after it thrashes about a little it just drops in automatically. If you are more careful and try to carry momentum into the spin from something like an outside snap or pop top, the Slick goes right in with zero fuss, almost like that's what it wanted to do anyway. Previously nothing rivaled the Edge for this, but the Slick makes it really close, if not even a little better.
 
While not on the videos, the first day I tried a full rudder and elevator spin with a little power and opposite ailerons. The slick just pivots around it's center, nearly flat and barely losing any altitude. The only other plane I have flow that does this as well is the 60" Laser, so clearly the slick is flying bigger than it really is.

 
Today was a poor day to be testing harrier manners but by now I was so confident with the plane I just went for it and the Slick responds very well to this. I could see by putting the Slick into the car that the rudder is taller than the Extra, which keeps it in cleaner air when you are in harrier. This allows you to carry the nose even higher and maintain rudder control, while the Slick does seem to be a little less prone to wing rock than the Extra when you fly it sloppily. If you are precise with either one they fly beautifully, but we aren't always precise and the Slick is probably a better bet for the new guys who want to work on their harrier skills.
 
I'm not one to brag about my pathetic harrier rolls, but with the slick they seem to be much easier and less threatening, especially on the deck. Maybe I am starting to get my stick stir down a little better, or more likely the Slick doesn't fall out nearly as badly as some other planes, and because of it's generous side area, floats better instead dropping. When you start working your rollers low, that first 1/4 roll to KE is terrifying because the plane is going slow and you just know your going to run out of ailerons and lift at the same time and simply cartwheel the thing to it's death. For whatever reason, after one or two harrier rolls that fear disappeared and I was happy doing rollers at least as low as on my best day. I was using less rudder and elevator, and even a little less power, so on a nice day I am sure I can do these slower and lower. In rollers, the Slick just feels good.
 
Another maneuver you won't see me bragging about much is hovers, but I didn't look real bad with the Slick. The rudder has so much authority you have less chance of getting behind and over controlling trying to bring it back. I'm not sure if it locks in better or it is just easier to keep there because of the authority, but also, here the Slick feels good.





In general, More than any plane I have flown yet, the Slick does everything the way it's supposed to do it. It responds to exactly what you are telling it to do. It goes where you point it and it stays where you point it.
 
The most overriding thing I can tell you about the slick is something I can't quite quantify. I am just confident in the extreme with this plane. I already know it's character, maybe because it matches my style so much, or maybe because it's just that damm good. Even when I got into trouble, it didn't really frighten me. I just calmly flew it out and only got scared when I had time to think about it later. While I am flying the plane, I tell the plane to go from A to B, and the plane goes from A to B with no fuss. It just flies right. It just flies superbly.
 
It's Simply Superb


Unfortunately my trunk is only 51.5" wide! Since I want a 74" Slick 580, I'm working on getting a bigger car!